You’ve designed something beautiful in CLO3D. It looks amazing on screen, and now you need to print it, cut it out and sew it together. But somewhere between the software and the fabric, things can go a little wrong. I’ve been there.
Honestly, this is the step most tutorials skip entirely. So here’s exactly how I get my CLO3D patterns into a file I can project (or print) for real garments, and what I check every single time to make sure the pattern comes out the correct size.
Free download: If you use CLO3D a lot, grab my free CLO3D Key Commands and Useful Charts. Shortcuts are almost exclusively how I move between tools in the 2D and 3D windows, and they make everything so much faster.
Step 1: Check your pattern before you export
For this example I’m using a fun little zip-up hoodie I made recently. Before you export anything from CLO3D, make sure you’re happy with the pattern:
- Double-check your measurements.
- Double-check your notches.
- Turn on your seam allowance and make sure it’s there on every piece.
Step 2: Arrange the pieces you actually need
I arrange my pieces so I’m only cutting what I need, like half of the front and half of the back. For the hoodie, that was the front, the back, one sleeve, a sleeve cuff, the front pocket, the full waistband, the hood, and a heart applique that I left whole because it’s easier to work with.
Space the pieces out a little. Separated pieces are much easier to work with once you’re in Illustrator.
Step 3: Add a sizing square
Don’t skip this one (I almost did!). Draft a 2″ x 2″ square in CLO3D. Later you’ll use it to confirm that nothing got scaled along the way.
Step 4: Export as an Adobe PDF
Go to File > Export > Adobe PDF and name your file.
Important: Don’t change the scale, and don’t switch the units from millimeters to inches here, even if you draft in inches like I do. Leave them as they are.
The export settings I use:
- On: internal lines (I want my heart placement line), baseline and notches, pattern outlines, and seam allowance
- Off: reference lines, pattern names and annotations (I don’t love how CLO3D does them), buttonholes, buttons and 2D measurements
I also make sure all my grain lines are straight up and down before I export, so the pieces come into Illustrator already on grain. Turn on anything that’s useful to you. I just like a clean base.
Step 5: Clean it up in Adobe Illustrator
Open the PDF in Illustrator and zoom out so you can see all your pieces. Then:
- Measure your sizing square. If it’s 2″ x 2″, you’re good.
- Release the clipping mask. Switch to the Selection tool (V), select all, right-click and choose Release Clipping Mask. Then delete the outer clipping mask.
- Bump up the stroke weight so the lines are easy to see.
- Delete anything you don’t want, like stray arrows or annotations that came in with the export.
- Group each pattern piece with its seam allowance and internal lines, so everything stays together when you move it. Then delete the sizing square group.
Step 6: Set up your projector file
Open a new file (I keep a pre-saved one just for projector sewing) and copy-paste your pieces in. Now you have a file you can easily project.
A few things I do here:
- Separate pieces by fabric. I move everything cut from the contrasting fabric to one area and everything from the main fabric to another.
- Line up pieces that share an edge. For example, if two pieces should both sit on the fold or on the same straight grain, reflect one and line them up together.
- Add grain lines. I’ll be honest: I don’t always do this, and it’s a bad habit. I highly suggest you add them!
Printing instead of projecting?
If you’re printing at home, you’ll need to tile your pattern across letter or A4 pages. I use a pre-made print board file with all the artboards already set up and numbered. I just paste in my pattern pieces, arrange them on the pages, and move the pattern to the back so I can still see the page numbers.
If you’d like the same setup, you can grab my Illustrator Sewing Pattern Print Board Template Bundle.
Check the size one more time
When you actually print or project, double-check the size again:
- Projecting? Make sure you’re projecting at the right size.
- Printing? Make sure it’s printing at 100% and isn’t scaled.
Once you get this workflow dialed in, you’ll stop second-guessing yourself every time. You’ll cut and sew your projects faster and get much more consistent results.
Keep going
Don’t forget to grab your free CLO3D Key Commands and Useful Charts. And if you’re new here, subscribe on YouTube for new digital pattern drafting videos every week, plus tips, tricks and fun sewing projects.
Happy patterning!
